Dirty fuel injectors may cause the engine to run lean which will in turn, cause hesitation when accelerating. Begin typing your search term above and press enter to search. Press ESC to cancel. Ben Davis May 1, Why does my Honda Accord shut off while driving? What does it mean when your car cuts off while driving? Why does my Honda Accord sputter when I accelerate? Why does my Honda Accord lose power while driving?
Why is my car sputtering and losing power? Why does my car feel like its sputtering? What are your thoughts on the results? As to the ignition switch tests you suggested; I turned on the switch as slowly as possible in both tests.
When the lights went on, they stayed on brightly and never flicker for an instant. A for the fuel, when the engine quits. It shuts off instantly, no hesitation, bucking or shuddering. I have experienced exactly the same symtoms in another make of car. As I understand it, these modules contain electronic circuitry which due to the 'hostile' location of the module ie on the distributor are encased in a heat resitant material.
This material can break down and when it does the module's components can overheat. Leaving the car to cool down solves the problem, at least until you start the car and the module heats up again.
You may have noticed the problem getting worse over time. A short hesitation or motor cutout at speed occassionally, maybe a failure to start after a short stop on a hot day, and then the events occur more frequently and the effects are more problematic. The Ignition module is a control mechanism which sends data to and receives data from the Powertrain Control Module PCM or on-board computer.
One of its key functions is to detect programmed ignition pulses PIPs. PIPs occur as the magnets in the distributor pass a Hall effect sensor and create pulses of voltage. The PCM sends data back to the Ignition Module which in turn relays this to the coil and bingo, thousands of volts head to the appropriate spark plug. The PCM also uses the information from the Ignition Module to tell the fuel injection solenoids to start pulsing.
Thus we have those two vital ingedients, spark and fuel. When an ignition module fails, the PCM no longer receives the vital signs from the distributor and must assume the engine has stopped rotating. Acordingly it ceases to send information that would allow the coil to energise and of course ceases to allow the fuel solenoids to pulse into what it now believes is a non-rotating engine. There will still be pressure at the fuel rail though. The result is no spark or fuel to the cylinders.
To me this seemed a bizarre explanation. However even more bizarre, I was told if there were further underlying issues, then I would still have to pay for this work, even if it wasn't necessary whilst they investigated the other problems.
So basically, speaking to Honda didn't really provide me with any real hope that this would be a quick fix. I only felt as though he was after my money and everything else was secondary. This was the first impression I got, as the first thing he told me was that they don't usually replace these sensors.
Which I thought was strange and I fully expected him to offer me a deal on a new car and to get rid of my old one. Anyway I have spoken to my own mechanic and he knows someone who actually knows what he's doing and have booked my car in for next Monday. Fingers crossed it holds out till then. Will need to check on diagnosis machine hopefully won't be dreaded timing chain code let us know dtc code so we can advise further Sent from my C using Tapatalk.
This has nothing to do with timing chains! It was previously found that the APP sensor was at fault, but if the MIL has been on then the resulting stored code could again be read to confirm that this is still the continuing problem.
So this should be done first. An attempt to clean the APP sensor should have been tried. Personally I do not think that a main dealer is the best option for cost-effective repairs to older vehicles. A small local garage would be far more inclined to fit secondhand parts or attempt to clean the existing sensor.
Whether replacing or cleaning, this is a simple task that does not require specialist knowledge. Actually, it's a fairly simple DIY that I would encourage you to try! I think the Greenflag mechanic checked the codes with his diagnostic machine and told me it was showing the accelerator pedal sensor as being faulty.
Fingers crossed it will be the same issue and should be a quick fix. In the meantime I'm using cruise control when I drive on the motorway.
It got me to work and back again the last few days without any problems. Just had the car back from the mechanic, after the the diagnostics have been completed. My mechanic tells me the rear ABS sensor is faulty and will need replacing.
I've booked my car in for this Friday. Just had the rear ABS sensor replaced by my mechanic today. Drove my car over 30 miles without using cruise control and so far so good. Will test it over the next week or so, fingers crossed it wont go into limp mode.
Limp mode has nothing to do with the ABS system. If you haven't addressed the APP sensor then it's likely to cause trouble again. I hope it hasn't been misdiagnosed, if it has I won't be happy. I will just have to wait and see. A failing abs sensor will never make your engine cut off. A failing APPS will. Economic Members.
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